This morning at 10:42 I saw my shadow. Which of course was cast by sunshine. And I’ll tell you I was awfully relieved because I was beginning to feel like nothing more than a figure in a middle aged cyclists’s pre European tour nightmare. The shadow made things real again. And good.
But I’m getting ahead of myself. Just 10 minutes and 500 uphill meters (through some kind of private land on a muddy trail) into this day, I broke up with google maps. It was an unhealthy relationship and totally one sided.
Komoot is a popular route planning and sharing app for cyclists in Europe. And I had downloaded the Saale radweg route to my phone so figured I’d use it. It doesn’t do turn by turn navigation unless you pay for it (that I won’t pay a few bucks for this is a whole different matter), but figured I’d give it a go. Plus I’ve gotten decent at using the cycling signs that so perplexed me when I started. It’s easier in these parts, with fewer options and thus clearer signage.
Turns out this particular cycle route is more of a river valley ride than a riverside ride. And the valley is pretty deep. So you ride down by the river, climb a few hundred meters up, then drop back down to the river and ride along it for a kilometer or two. Rinse and repeat. I must have done this 5 times today. And some of those climbs were rough. 16% grade one time. Obviously a route cooked up by sadists for masochists.
Some of the riding was gorgeous. Thick and lush forests on either bank of a 80 foot wide river. Serene and peaceful riding in the middle of nowhere. I saw three deer which is some of the first wildlife I’ve seen. Unfortunately I didn’t take photos of any of it figuring I’d be on the river all day, but…
The enemy of this trip, after the rain, are work crews. They seem to be doing work at an awful lot of critical junctions along the routes I’m riding. In one such instance today it was part of a path I was able to figure out an alternate for. I’m sure it cost me a 30 minute grueling climb, but whatever. Another such instance was at the one and only river crossing I needed. I paused and considered my options. Risk untold elevation gain, extra hours and tough navigation or take the easy way. I swallowed my pride and begged google maps to take me back. Reached Jena 2 simple and sun filled hours later and had an early dinner.
And that wind? At my back most of the day. It did some pushing for sure.
Jena is a college town of about 100,000 people in what was east Germany. I really like it, actually. It’s not •old• seeming (despite being almost 1,000 years old), just a normal mid sized town without tourist crowds. While I ate I looked up campgrounds and there was one 2km away. I decided to be a normal human and go for it instead of tacking on another 20 to 40km.
I arrive at Camping Jena and no one is at reception, despite the posted hours suggesting someone should be. Then this guy rolls up on a bike with a satchel slung over one shoulder and a record tucked under the other arm. He parks his bike near me, without acknowledging me in any way, and opens what looks like an official door at a nearby building. I wait a few minutes and then go peak in and ask “reception?” He says yes.
Steffen is about my age. He owns this place and the streetcar reception building with it. If the satchel and record part didn’t give it away, here is the hipster punchline: he tells me that he refers to what happens here as slow camping. I don’t bother asking what that means. 🙄
I shouldn’t be so hard on the guy. He’s really nice. Curiously he asked how to pronounce my last name while noting it looks German. No kidding! He also said I’m the first Canadian here in at least 4 years.
I was checked in, fed, showered and had the tent set up by 7. So I walked to town for a treat.
What a difference a day can make. The forecast for tomorrow has 20% chance of rain in the early afternoon. I like those odds. I have 2 more days on this trail before reaching the Elbe segment. I think I’m going to stick with the original plan. I feel like I am through the worst of the weather.
SUNSHINE! Hope it continues. As a “described-as-hipster-by-others”, I will admit that the streetcar reception is really cool.
Hahahaha. It is!
Very happy the day worked out. Having fun reading this. From Portland.
My Mom and I are reading your blog today. She’s thinks your trip sounds very cool and I think she might take up cycling now 😉 Well, maybe a bus a through Germany. Hope you see the “sonne” from now on.
Do it! I swear 75% of the people I’m seeing on bikes here are over 60
I’m sure you are right to reunite with Google and give’er a 2nd go. I think I would need both apps to keep you in sight with all the detours you are being thrown! I would be losing my remaining hairs to stress if I were in your sneakers.
Are there any non-fried meal options for you to eat aside from ice creams?
Stay dry, guy.
Iain
I’ll probably never know Iain. For the record I do eat a lot of fruit I just don’t take pictures of it
Entertaining post, Chad. Glad to hear the high winds helped you along. Famous alumni of Friedrich Schiller University in Jena are impressive; Karl Marx, Georg Hegel, Gottfried Liebnitz, Carl Zeiss, Paul Langerhans, and Otto Schott. Glad to hear the weather is looking more promising.
Wow! Liebnitz was the German Newton (except he never invented a cat flap as far as I know.) And Hegel made it into the Philosophers Sing by Monty Python, so he’s okay in my book too.
Those of some pretty heavy hitters. Wow
Wind at your back, sun, good food, you had a good day. You know you probably won’t be back there so stop and take pictures…….it might cost you all of 30 seconds . I was finally able to compare your “maybe” route with what you rode today. Kept wondering if maybe you were lost ….then again maybe it was my map reading. Bike safe.
WOW. Chad! Look at that. Here I was expecting you’d be a bit more offline during this trip, but – exactly the opposite. 😀 Hope the weather’s turning out in your favour today. Earn those ice creams Chad! Go go go! 🙂
It’s easier to keep in touch with multiple people this way and also fun 🙂