Day 24: Vienna to Bratislava

Clearly I decided to move on. One reason is I figured I did pretty much get 2 days in Vienna, particularly since I rode into town this morning for breakfast. The other reason was weather. Today was a little cooler and overcast so a better day for riding. I’m happy with my choice.

It was excellent riding conditions and terrain today. I got a late start because I was in no rush and also due to going almost 20 km out of my way for breakfast. No matter, I figured I’d get to the campground in Bratislava by 5 or so.

But then a guy pulls up next to me and we start chatting. Christopher (or however an Austrian would spell that) was riding to a border town to visit his dad who is in rehab due to a recent stroke. He’s 45, has a 10 year old daughter and is currently training to become a bike mechanic. (I know you’re thinking I need to ride with more folks like this.) He apologized a lot for struggling with the odd word in English. I suggested that was crazy, given that I don’t speak a word of German.

English, it seems, is the common tongue. People often address each other in English before their native language if they are unsure of where the person they are addressing is from.

Anyway, I don’t know who was showing off to who, but Christopher and I were screaming along the path and made it 75% of the way in what felt like an hour and a half. At some point we picked up Umar, a software developer from Düsseldorf who’s riding from Munich to Budapest. He had many, many cameras, and said he had a drone too but lost it in the Danube. By this point I’m probably on his instagram account. Riding with others is a pretty different experience than riding alone. Or maybe riding 70 km is just more pleasant that 100+. Probably both.

At the last town in Austria, Christopher and I stopped at a fancy river side restaurant for some schnitzel.

After lunch I had a flat. Not even in the same problem area, this was new glass in the tire. In some ways I’m glad because it forced me to put on the new one I’ve been lugging around for a few days now.

Next thing I know, I’m in Slovakia. Country 5 and the only one I’ve never been to before. I could see Bratislava on a hill from about 20 km away, and the final approach revealed the UFO bridge. I think it’s clear why it’s called that.

First stop in town was ice cream. Priorities are important. It was a bustling area, there was a stage being set up for a free concert I think, and this was perhaps the most expensive cone I’ve had in Europe, oddly.

The campground is on the other side of town, so I had to ride from end to end. Bratislava is apparently the smallest European capital, but bigger than I imagined. Also more beautiful. I think a few other people I’ve spoken to didn’t love it, and their opinions rubbed off on me. It looks like a great place to spend a day, in my humble opinion.

Once at camp I opted to stay in for the evening. It’s on a small lake and has a grocery store next door. Plus, a little sitting in something other than a bike seat is nice for a change.

In one of the google reviews of this campground, someone wrote it has secret police training camp vibes. The common buildings are pretty Soviet era blockish and deteriorating a little, and it has a bunch of cabins that are small and cute but a little run down. So the assessment is not wrong. Still, I like it.

The young people at reception told me I am required to let them put my bike in a storage room over night so it doesn’t get stolen. I then asked about storing my gear when I go into town tomorrow, and they said they have another room for that. They said, rather wryly, they have special rooms for just about anything 🤣. Secret police training camp indeed.

That’s it for today. I’m one week away from being home, which feels crazy. I’m excited about that and of course what happens between now and then.