Day 10: Anserma to Jardin

I just got out of a 30 minute soak in my own private jacuzzi. Let me tell you about what it took to get here.

I awoke at 6 and couldn’t go back to sleep, so anxious about getting out of Anserma and the possible steep downward inclines. My intense and well documented fear of heights includes a particular dislike of steepness. Up or down is irrelevant. I actually have a recurring nightmare of trying to drive a car up a ramp in a parking garage only to have it slide down.

Turns out it was a non issue for leaving town (but not for the ride as a whole). In fact, I had 5 kms up to start the day. Which was preferable and a mostly very pleasant ride.

I was between 6000 and 7000 feet for today’s 35 kms. Not super high, but high enough. The views I was able to look at were outrageously spectacular, the ones I couldn’t were probably even better. Deep green vegetation in the foreground and rows upon rows of vaguely outlined mountains beyond that. I really can’t overstate the beauty of this place.

I stopped for second breakfast at the highest point.

None of the ride was terrifying. I’d give it a 7 on a 10 point scale of fear. I just rode slow and in the middle of the road when possible.

Arrived at the Riosucio bus terminal just before 12. The rep for the company that runs buses to Jardin spoke English (a first!) told me the 3 pm bus would be a chiva and therefore a bike could go on the roof. I’d never heard of a chiva until I was planning this day. It’s a colorful, South American open air bus that blasts local music. And given this terrible road through the mountains (it’s all over the internet how bad this road is) I was very excited for the whole experience.

With the 3 hours I had I walked around town and got some lunch. Happened upon what appeared to be a hipster foodie type restaurant of all things. It was fantastic.

At 2:45 a filthy and dusty half bus pulls into the terminal and all the backpackers head towards it. This is no chiva. I confirm that’s it headed to Jardin and watch the driver pack, and I mean cram, all the humans and stuff into the vehicle. He looks at me and says mañana ocho. Damn.

There’s a group of taxi/collectivo drivers nearby. I approach them about a private ride to Jardin. One of them speaks English (a second!) and says an outrageous number but then says he’ll confirm with the driver. He’s back in a minute with a much more reasonable price. I offer slightly less and it seems we have a deal.

Then I realize the driver is just a guy across the street with a car. Hmmmmm. Nothing official about it. I hesitate. They’re asking me to pay now, the driver needs gas, and I say I want to see the car and get it packed before I do anything else. So we do that.

They seem pretty friendly, but still I make a mental note of where everything important I have is. He starts driving the wrong way, I remain calm if a little uncomfortable. He explains he needs to change the money (I paid in USD), and I hope he’s telling the truth.

Jaime, the driver, has a laugh a little like Jabba the Hutt and a fondness for the finger snapping like gesture that tweens were crazy about around a decade ago. He’s maybe around 65, single, I gather, and a friendly and excitable guy. He speaks no English so we are at the mercy of my Spanish.

He was driving the *wrong* direction because he took the long way to Jardin. My guess is his gutless 5 speed Renault couldn’t do the tough dirt road. (For reference, the bus ride is 3 hours for 50 km.) But on paved, curvy mountain roads, wow could he make it go! It’s always a treat to watch mastery like that.

It was a 4 hour drive and he told me he would stay in Jardin overnight. I gave him a big enough tip to get dinner and a hotel. He gave me a hug.

Which brings me to the jacuzzi. When I was satisfied I wasn’t going to be mugged or worse, and when the internet was available, I started looking for cabañas in Jardin. Not surprisingly, Google Maps and booking.com listings aren’t very descriptive and often don’t have many if any photos of places to stay in these parts. I messaged a few places and got a reply from Blue Sky cabañas. The price was a lot cheaper than many of the others and the messages were friendly so I figured I’d give it a shot.

OMG it is one of the nicest places I’ve ever stayed. I have my own small beautiful wooden house in someone’s backyard. Private deck from where I write this. Private open air bathroom with shower and jacuzzi below me. Really friendly hosts. Cookie and Arctic as canine companions. The cat didn’t introduce itself. $25 USD a night. Crazy! I can’t wait to see my views in the daylight tomorrow.

I’m staying here for 2 nights. Tomorrow I’m going to plan out my remaining days. Buenos noches.