Day 3: Ambalema to Ibague (almost)

I have picked a really unusual form of recreation and leisure 🤣.

Got the whole gamut of cycling challenges today:

• headwind (morning only)
• extreme heat, 36 degrees, almost 10 Celsius over the seasonal average
• sand, you know, because the roads aren’t rough enough already
• flat(ish) tire, slow leak I have yet to investigate
• 10 km climb averaging 6% to end the day but I can’t really complain about that

Started the day out and about in search of coffee and food. After I successfully completed this mission, I learned my hotel room came with breakfast. So 2 it was.

The first part of riding today was quick on a pleasant road. Trees on either side so it was shady. I did the first 30 km in under 2 hours despite it being hot and gently uphill. Stopped for a drink and snacky things at a roadside restaurant.

Then I got spat out on a main highway. The riding was quick but those shoulders were narrow. And the truck drivers appear to be in a massive hurry and seem to like seeing just how close they can cut it.

This didn’t last long though because the route I’m following obviously prefers rougher side roads, and there was plenty of that. By themselves, the roads were tough. In the heat, extremely tough. Fortunately there were many streams in the area. I stopped anytime I was near one to fully submerge my T-shirt and bandanna. This would give me about 15 minutes of somewhat more comfortable riding before I was completely dry again.

I don’t think I rode for more than 30 continuous minutes the whole afternoon. And I’ll admit I wondered a few times if I was going to be able to carry on with the trip. Oh, extreme heat is awful when you have to achieve something in it. Climate change ruins everything.

Then there was a 2 hour slog up a hill. Half on rough road and the last half on tarmac. Around the middle I noticed my front tire was bouncier than usual. I pumped it up (and again an hour later) and it got me to town.

I’m in perhaps a scrappy outer barrio of Ibague. I was so beat and this place seemed so, hmmmm, South American I couldn’t resist. Radios everywhere blaring festive music out of broken speakers, food lining both sides of the street, buses and motorcycles and people fighting for space. Dogs sleeping through it all. Blessed mayhem.

Got a room at the first hotel I found. The man who runs it is very sweet. When I gestured about lugging my bike upstairs he gave me a ground floor room. When I cleaned my drivetrain on the street outside he brought a safety cone out to protect me. When I asked if I could pay by card he tried his best to get the tech to work, punching his phone screen with his index finger vigorously, but it was a cash deal in the end.

Went to the city square for dinner. I just love these places, so vibrant and full of life. There was a Mexican food restaurant and it was glorious! Birria is like that.

Ibague is a fairly large town, 500,000 people or so. I am going to spend the day tomorrow replacing important parts of my kit (Levi’s and adidas stores in town!), dealing with my flat and generally not biking much. I’ll get myself over to the west end of town tomorrow night so as to be as close and possible to a likely extremely challenging and remote two day ride up a big mountain. But that’s a worry for mañana.