Hello! I didn’t think I’d be here again so soon, freaking myself out about another trip, yet here I am.
It was but 5 months ago that I returned from my ride through Europe, without any particular plans or specific intentions for a significant ride this year. In fact, I was thinking it’s not super practical for me to do bigger trips like that every year, so I had resigned myself to something shorter and more local for 2024, maybe a series of such rides.
However, since getting back work has been very (very) slow. I had always been somewhat concerned that taking more than roughly two weeks off would result in a slowdown like this, freelance work being a momentum type thing not unlike cycling. And that’s exactly what has happened. Though in reality I am sure its just a coincidence.
Anyway, as the end of 2023 approached, I became a little worried that starting a new year without much to do, in dreary, gray and cold Toronto, would be a bad situation for my headspace. I also remembered the words of past-Chad’s-during-work-slowdowns: don’t worry too much, the work will come back, enjoy the time off. (Of course, some privilege helps with all of this.)
Deciding to do the lemon > lemonade thing resulted in some google searches for cheap plane tickets to warmer climates with interesting cycling. Cuba, Portugal and Peru were considered, but in the end Colombia won the coin toss. Ok, it wasn’t really a coin toss. I found a route that seemed to fit the bill in terms of distance/time*, ease of access, and low planning overhead. I found this:
Plan A
This route was created and ridden by a guy named Matt who started a popular bikepacking route here in Ontario called the Butter Tart 700. I haven’t ridden it, but have heard good things. Matt is an adventure cyclist, photographer and writer (among other things), and you can read his write-up about this Camino route if you’re interested (its great!). I have pretty much memorized the article and keep referring to the image gallery to remind myself why I am doing this.
As you can see, the map includes extensive notes and handy POIs for everything important to a cyclist: sleep, arepas, water and nasty climbs and descents. Matt was also very responsive and helpful in replies to my emails!
Savvy readers would have noticed the distance/time* flag above. Savvy map viewers would have noticed the +35,275 m at the top of the map (that’s 115,000 ft for those Americans among you). Allow me to connect the dots between these points…
My first thought when I found this route was ‘perfect, I can do 1,500 km in two weeks no problem’. However, having lost many hours of sleep and having performed 3 seconds of basic arithmetic since booking my ticket, I have come to feel otherwise. The total elevation gain over 2 weeks works out to an average ~8,000 ft of climbing per day 😬. I’m not sure I have ever done that in a day! Never mind on primarily dirt roads, some of which are apparently quite rough and may include double digit grades. All to say, I do not expect to finish the route (should I pursue it). I could assess my progress when I am near Medellin and its airport, which is roughly the midpoint of the ride, and hatch a scheme to get back to Bogotá by means other than pedal power if needed. The previous sentence is so nonchalant and casual. Arriving at that conclusion involved no small amount of strife and terror.
Plan B
I worked myself into such a frenzy over the potential intensity of the ride that last week I started looking at other options. The good news is that there is a fairly extensive set of rides near Bogotá. The series is called The Andean Bear Corridor and it consists of 4 connected routes. Ruta Chingaza and Oh Boyaca are the most interesting to me. I think mountains and climbs may be more intense, but the total distance could be shorter and I’d always be within a reasonable bus ride of Bogotá. This provides me some relief. However, these routes may in some ways be more remote, and, according to my research and some inside information from very helpful contacts Karen has in Colombia, they won’t offer the same variations in climate, scenery and culture that the Camino route is promising. Plus, there is more planning involved as well as some other logistical challenges.
Over last weekend, Karen listened as I spewed the contents of my brain. It totally took the edge off, and I was back to sticking with my original plan. As I sit here now, I am again experiencing doubt, but at least the dread has turned into a butterfly-in-stomach mix of stress and excitement.
All to say
- I am teetering between the options
- I am flying by the seat of my pants days away from departure
- I don’t really care for either of the above
- I am very likely going to have an incredible experience regardless
- I am skilled at playing mind games with myself, however I don’t believe I am winning them
Meantime, I booked a consultation with a Colombian bike advisor for Thursday. I am as surprised as you that such a thing exists. Let’s hope Omar can set me straight! The rates are favorable compared to a therapist.
Random details
I don’t plan to camp every night. It’s quite possible I won’t camp much at all, but I am bringing the gear anyway.
Speaking of gear, I am scaling back as much as I can on how much I carry due to the mountains, and I am trying out a new packing style (to set hard limits on capacity!). No front rack/panniers this time, instead a handlebar harness system for some lighter, bulky things like my sleeping bag. If I can pare back enough, I hope to use the smaller front panniers on the rear rack, but haven’t been successful yet. So dedicated am I to travelling light that I packed instant coffee. Oh, the horror.
I also got wider, knobby tires because of the rougher surfaces I’ll be on. Frankly, my bike is not the ideal rig for this, but it can and will do. It’ll likely hold out better and longer than me.
And the other thing: Colombia has a bad rap as a dangerous place. For sure, it has a lengthy and pretty recent history filled with drug cartels, significant conflict between the government and various rebel groups, and violence. However, much has changed in the last decade or so, and I feel very comfortable going there. Karen travelled there pretty extensively by herself about 6 years back. Nothing but great experiences. I’ll be aware and cautious, as I am like to be.
I’m off this Sunday night and I’ll keep you posted!
P.S. I had to rebuild this website so if you have problems signing in to comment or anything else just let me know!
Such a joy to see this pop up in my email! Excited to follow along on another journey!
Brings tears Chaddo. And they aren’t worried tears but tears of joy. You’ve created another challenge but you’ve proven you can handle what’s thrown at you. Have a great ride. Love you.
❤️
I’m excited for you! It’s going to be great!
Just saying… the aeropress go is pretty compact. You know, in case you change your mind :P.
The aeropress PLUS a pound of coffee. That’s the main difference
Bringing instant coffee to Colombia sounds like it should have restrictions, like bringing California oranges into Florida.
This has occurred to me. However, when we were there before on a coffee tour we were told it’s actually hard to get good coffee in Colombia because the premium stuff is all exported.
Makes sense. And if course, you can’t use it right off the tree – unless you carry a roaster and grinder besides the Aeropress.
Ah Chadimo, what an adventure!! I’m looking forward to your mastery of the written word over my morning coffee (instant) in this the cold dead of winter. 115,000 ft – that’s almost 4 times the height of Mt Everest and in just two weeks – if you get up the height of even one of the base camps that would be a win. I enjoyed the photo essay and the video – I wish you were taking a go pro to film the whole thing… what a beautiful ride (that I would miss looking just trying to breathe) The food along the way smells great even from here and I remember Columbian street food agreeing with you. What ever portion you can do will be a success my friend, and there’s surely a good cup of coffee somewhere along the way (El Camino de Cafe!) – and I am already smiling at an expected story about escaping a few dogs and worn out brakes and new biking comrades.
Here’s to ~60% of the distance!
So excited.
Chaddo- thatta boy for powering thru day 1. Those with lesser strength may have surrendered. Proud of you and very happy that they two was better. Have a great and safe trip. Look forward to your continuing updates. Love you.