Glasgow (or Glesga as they say here)

When Chad said that he wasn’t going to write a post about Glasgow, I knew I had to step in. Now, I’m no Rabbie Burns (or Chad Mohr), but I’ll do my best to capture what the last few days have meant to us in the city of my birth. Glasgow was named Europe’s “Capital of Culture” in 1990 and I’d say it definitely holds up. So much is infused with history, politics and always a nod to its proud working class roots.

We have walked miles and miles of this old city, founded in the 6th century. We have admired all kinds of art, the street variety and in galleries – all of it free. The architecture is incredible. We marvel at how these magnificent buildings were built hundreds of years ago and wonder about the lives of the workers who laid those heavy stones. The Glasgow Necropolis tells us that the wealthy Glaswegians lived long lives, unlike those in the pauper’s graveyards.

Glasgow Cathedral’s first stones were laid in the 1100’s! The University of Glasgow was built in 1451. We stood by the grave of Scotland’s hero William Wallace, the leader of the resistance in the first Scottish War of Independence from England in 1297. Here below is the site of where I was born not too long ago. All pregnant women, married or not, were welcomed here, giving value to human life above class and religious conservatism. The façade of the Rottenrow Maternity Hospital is all that remains, overlooking a beautiful green space, filled with students from around the world and their dreams for the future.

Glasgow was also a rough place over the years. Poverty, unemployment, rampant alcoholism and a massive influx of street drugs which took the lives of many young Scots. The walking dead as they were called. If you’ve seen or read Trainspotting, set in Edinburgh in the 80’s, you know what I mean. Glasgow was also Europe’s murder capital in the mid-2000’s. Gangs, knives, street violence. Thankfully, investing in healthcare, housing and community supports has significantly reduced crime rates and saved a lot of young lives. Go figure.

We are mainly here to see my Auntie Ann, my mom’s youngest sister. She is the salt of the earth, an old school Glaswegian, and the connection to my past. Chad and I took my aunt and her best friend Janette out to dinner last night at an Indian restaurant where my parents used to go when they were dating! We ate pastries in the Glasgow Green, a big open park that used to be notorious for its gangs, the infamous Calton Tongs and Billy Boys. Templeton’s carpet factory where my mom worked is now condos and has a beer garden and restaurant on the lawn. The building is still beautiful. 

We’ve eaten vegetarian haggis, blood pudding (this vegetarian took a bite for old times sake), tattie scones and lots of “filled rolls”, inside is square sausage, scrambled eggs, you name it, between a delicious soft bun. We’ve yet to have a chip butty, but tonight we’ll bring fish suppers to my aunt so this might be the night. Definition: a chip butty, comfort food, is a sandwich made with chips (French fries) and buttered white bread, often enjoyed with condiments like vinegar or curry sauce. My mouth is watering. (Update: It was really good!)

We are now packed and ready to hit the road early tomorrow morning. I’m always sad to leave Glasgow, but will be back in a week as Chad heads off further north on his bike. Your favourite OG will soon be back, to regale you with stories of the highlands and remote places. I highly recommend Billy Connolly’s Made In Scotland. Oh, for those of you in withdrawal, here’s a few bike things.

Cheerio for now!