I knew I was in for some fun getting out of my sheep pasture. The highway was only 200 meters away from where I pitched my tent, but there was a river between. I considered fording it, but in the end decided to suffer through the ~3 kms of pasture to the bridge. And suffer I did. For almost 2 hours. It was worth it for the experience though. That’s what I kept telling myself.

Then highway riding for a while. Passed by a castle but it was overrun with people so I kept peddling. Got lunch at a grocery store because the few restaurants I checked out were pretty expensive.
Interesting that the small towns around here are so upscale. Not at all like home. I think the route I am currently roughly following, the North Coast 500, is a pretty popular camper van trip. I’ve seen it likened to Route 66. Lots of fairly young and pretty cool looking people in rental campers. Fjallraven ad type stuff.
I decided to try my luck off the highway again. This time it was forestry roads so I figured that’d be more achievable than tractor paths or military roads. It was steeeeeep but rideable. BTW, Google maps is clueless about how fast you travel on a bike over mountains.


The other side was even better and not just because I got to coast for 15 minutes.

At the bottom there was a lake surrounded by mountains. These photos are those mountains in order, left to right.



Shortly after this, I rode by a popup pizza kitchen / ice cream shop and right next to it the campsite I was considering (power and a shower are required tonight). Sure, I only did 80 km, but some things are just meant to be.


Nice campground here for £18. Shower was screaming hot but it took a while to scrub off the bog scum. There’s a drying room, common around here, and my clothes for tomorrow are warming up in it overnight, it’s a sauna in there. Lately it’s not much above freezing in the morning. There are 3 tent pitches and my neighbors are a Welshman and an Englishman both walking the Cape Wrath trail. It’s like the WHW for hardcore types.
I’ll leave you this evening with a funny story Karen shared from the airport in Glasgow:
I arrive at Glasgow Airport and find the baggage drop. I tell the guy I’m worried the bag is over the limit. He says, it is. I tell him that my husband is doing a 1000k bike ride and I’ve got all his discarded stuff in this bag. He says…did you say bike trip? And I quickly confirm – there’s no bike in there! He calls his colleague over and says “Irene, I’ve got another cycling widow over here” 😂 Turns out her husband is exactly you – we swap stories about cycling trips tacked on to every vacation, travelling alone while you continue on…she calls it all a pain in the ass. But we agree, it’s a great hobby to have and we like our time alone. They let me drop my bag with no extra charge. And tape up the bulging sides as she rolls her eyes and winks at me. Cycling widow. Oh Scotland.
I hope there’s a support group.
Or is it me that needs one?

That’s hilarious!!! Karen’s a saint, that’s all I can say. Such friendly people. Don’t know that we find that in the state. You’ve had a good meal, cleaned up good, you’ll sleep well. We’re enjoying Easter here. Brunch outside and now everyone is in the pool. Sleep well tonight. I’m sure you’ll have no problem! Safe biking tomorrow. Love ya, Ma
She is!
Those pizzas sure looks good. Happy riding tomorrow. Can’t wait to hear more about the stealth camping experience.
They were excellent. And the waiter/cook/host/dude running around like a madman because he have like 40 pizzas on the go was a sweetheart
Good story Karen. Very worthy of air time. Love ya, Larry
Is it possible that there really is another you out there? The other Karen is convinced. WOW. I’m speechless.
May the scenery pics never end!
Pastures and the like look so green and inviting until you have to get through them and realize they are basically muddy manure quicksand with a window dressing of grasses to lure you in. Especially when it’s wet, and when is it not wet in the Highlands!
💯